When I first moved into our new house, I had no inkling that installing crown molding would become one of my DIY adventures. Amidst the many surprises that came with this new abode, the need for crown molding in certain rooms emerged as a necessity, thanks to our unique ceiling situation. Some of our rooms feature vintage Weldtex ceiling panels, and to achieve that seamless, polished look between the walls and the panels, covering the sizable gap between them was essential. Not to mention, it also served as a clever way to hide the damage on the fragile plaster at the top of the walls.
I had some experience with trim work, having previously installed baseboards. So, when I started getting quotes for installing crown molding in our bedroom, a thought popped into my head: “I bet I can do that too!” And to my delight, the end result was truly satisfying. Now, I’m excited to share some of the tips and tricks I picked up along the way.
In the other rooms, we were fortunate enough to keep a fair amount of the old crown molding. However, the molding in our bedroom was a different story. It was so poorly cut that in some spots, the pieces didn’t meet up properly, and in others, there were gaps ranging from a few inches to a few feet. On top of that, we had to completely rebuild and drywall over one wall, which meant the entire area needed new molding. So, we decided to start fresh and remove all the old molding.
I chose a particular type of crown molding for our trim. What I loved about it was its perfect balance. It was large enough to effectively cover the gaps and hide the damage we wanted to conceal, yet it was simple and understated, avoiding the overly “fancy” look that some elaborate crown moldings can have. Another bonus was the right angle where it met the wall, eliminating the need to cut it upside down, as is required for some other types of molding, making the process a bit more straightforward.
The installation process mainly involves four key steps: cutting corner areas, attaching the trim, adding pieces together, and filling/calking the trim. Let’s dive into each one.
Cutting/Fitting Corners: In most cases, you’ll encounter right – angle corners that measure 90°. For these, it’s relatively straightforward to cut two mirroring 45° angles on a miter saw, allowing the pieces to fit snugly together. But in older houses like mine, where nothing is perfectly square, angles often deviate from the ideal 90°. That’s why I recommend using scrap trim pieces as testers. Cut two mirroring 45° angles for the corner, hold them up to see how they fit, and then gradually adjust the angle on each piece, always ensuring they match. Once you’ve found the “magic number” for a particular corner, you can cut your actual pieces with confidence. The same process applies to outer corners, like the one between my closet and bedroom door. Start with 45° test cuts and fine – tune from there.
Attaching the Trim: While it’s technically possible to attach the trim using a hammer and nail set, I highly recommend using a nail gun. I opted for a battery – powered one, which was incredibly convenient as I didn’t have to deal with a tank. Once your pieces are cut and positioned on the wall, use the nail gun to secure the wood to the ceiling and wall. Alternate by angling some brad nails up into the ceiling and others straight into the wall. Make sure the nails go in past the face of the trim so that you can easily fill the holes later. If a board spans from one corner to another, measure and cut both corners before attaching. For shorter boards, you’ll need to join them together.
Adding Two Pieces Together: When a board isn’t long enough to reach from one corner to another, you’ll have to attach two boards. To hide the seam effectively, cut both ends at a 45° angle using a miter saw. Apply some wood glue to each angle, press the pieces together, and wipe off any excess glue. Always ensure that both ends of the board are cut to the correct length and angle before gluing and attaching it to the wall. Planning ahead is crucial here, as you can’t make adjustments once the board is already attached.
Filling/Caulking/Painting: After all the precise cutting and nailing, it’s time to put the finishing touches on your project. Use wood filler to cover the nail holes and seams between the boards. I prefer a type that changes color when dry, making it easier to see when it’s ready to be sanded. Once dry, sand it down smooth. Then, caulk the gap between the wall/trim and ceiling/trim. I recommend a caulk that’s easy to clean up with water and dries quickly. Finally, add a coat of semi – gloss paint, and your crown molding installation is complete.
I have to admit, it was quite a challenge to capture good photos of the crown molding. That’s actually a testament to how well it blends in with the walls and ceiling, creating a seamless transition that makes it almost disappear in the best possible way. Of course, if you’re looking to make a statement, you could choose a more elaborate, larger, or bolder – looking molding and even paint it a contrasting color. But the fundamental principles of installation would remain the same.
Seeing that huge gap finally gone and the added touch of elegance that the crown molding brings to the room makes me incredibly happy. It’s a wonderful feeling to learn something new and complete a project on my own. Here’s to more DIY adventures and the satisfaction of a job well done!
